On Wednesday, we drove through the Columbia Gorge. The air was clear, and the views were as spectacular as always. We love being reminded that this is one of the prettiest places on earth.
The gorge gave way to endless miles of agriculture, stretching to the horizon. Dust devils and tumbleweed, and driving in the shadows of thunderheads.
After getting ourselves to Coeur d'Alene Wednesday, Thursday was all about getting to Bigfork in Montana. We had enjoyed dining on the shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene Wednesday evening, but that was about the only view we were going to get. Jerry had a hankering to see more and suggested a drive along the lakeshore, even if it meant adding an hour (or two, as it turned out) to our day's drive.
We turned off I-90 onto the Lake Coeur d'Alene Scenic Byway, which follows the eastern shore of the lake. Sounded like just what we were looking for, and so it proved to be. We had spectacular views of the lake and got to see an area we've never explored before. We kept ooh-ing and ah-ing and asking ourselves why we've never spent time here.
At the southeast end of the lake, we stopped briefly in the charming little town of Harrison, which has old brick storefronts and a city park with a bandstand on the lakefront. It was quite quiet, though I'm guessing it's hopping during the summer season. There were several locals sitting on a bench outside the downtown post office, shooting the breeze. I noticed an impressive-looking cycling and bike rental shop, which was soon explained by our sightings of several very nice looking bike paths as we headed back north.
On our way to I-90, we took a detour from our detour by driving around a large wetland that offered wildlife viewing. We saw only a couple of herons and a deer, but the marsh itself was quite scenic, including an old barn that was very at home in its field. Just before we got back to I-90, we encountered a herd of 30 or so elk, peacefully munching in a meadow. They must be blissfully unaware that bow hunting starts this weekend. While that is for deer hunting, I think, I'm not sure they should be too sanguine.
We turned north at St. Regis and wound our way along the Clark Fork River and through Paradise Valley. This must be the quintessential Big Sky Country. Vast areas of hayfields and grazing land. The skies were blue and the land, golden. Then suddenly, there was a brilliantly blue Flathead Lake in front of us. The contrast of the dry, wheaten land and the sparkling blue lake was dramatic and beautiful.
On Friday, we started our day by setting off to find Echo Lake (a recommendation from our lodging). The journey--with pretty views to the Swan Mountain Range--turned out to be worth more than the destination. A nice lake, but, then, we'd seen Lake Coeur d'Alene and Flathead.
So we decided Flathead was really what we wanted to see and drove down the eastern shore. What a vast and spectacular lake. Though it is a lake begging to be boated, there were very few boats out. We stopped at a state park, where we could walk to the lakeside and dip our toes (mostly metaphorically) in the lake. We drove through miles of cherry orchards and past a dozen roadside stands, all with signs offering cherries but all closed for the season.
On our way back to Bigfork, we stopped at a brewpub and munched our sandwiches (and sipped our Montana brews) on a deck hanging over the lake. It was all we could do to tear ourselves away from that breathtaking view. This Puget Sound girl really misses feasting her eyes on large, blue bodies of water. Flathead is missing the saltwater air and the Washington State ferries, but it went a long way toward feeding my need for big, broad water views.
On Saturday, we headed a short way north to see Kalispell. Either it's grown a lot, or I've forgotten a lot, or some combination of the two. I've visited here a number of times, but mostly for work, which means I flew in and was transported to some venue for a public meeting of one sort or another. I may not have been too focused on the merits of the town. Today, it was full of folks and cars. Shops looked thriving and busy. There were activities going on in every city park. There was a show of classic cars in one park--a slice of our 1950's and 1960's youth; frisbee golf in another; a multi-team football gathering in yet another.
Kalispell is a good place to buy cowboy boots and hats, and lots of other ranching clothes and gear. Here is just a portion of the boots available for young girls.
On the map, I could see the very intriguing Flathead River. I've rarely seen such a textbook oxbow river, and the geographer in me wanted to see it up close. The Flathead River looks like it would be perfectly experienced in a canoe. Being fresh out of canoes--and, truthfully, being not of a canoe persuasion--we drove along it and got out to see it, listen to it, and admire it wherever we could. Here, too, we had nice views to the Swan Mountains.
Our last exploration of this area was a drive to Swan Lake. It turned out to be the perfect mountain lake, with deep blue water, evergreens reaching to the shore, and the sun sparkling brightly.
Tomorrow, we must leave these pristine lakes and gentle hills. We have so enjoyed the scenery and the clear, fresh air. It has been just what these city kids needed.
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