A Catalan Good Friday

Friday, April 18

One of the primary reasons for staying in Collioure on Easter weekend was because it is one of three towns/cities in this Catalan region of France that have Spanish processions on Good Friday. There formerly was an independent Catalonia, part of which is now in Spain and part, in France. The ties in the region are still incredibly strong. There are references to Catalonia this and Catalan that everywhere you look. Many names of things sound more Spanish than French, and all of the town names are given in both French and Catalan. It is unlike any other region of France.

We made a point of arriving in the town reasonably early, since we didn't know when the procession would occur. When we got within a mile or so of the town, we could see cars parked along the road, up and down the hilly entry route. Every parking lot was "complet." There were people everywhere. We figured out quite quickly that we were not the only ones to think this might be an interesting thing to witness.

After settling into our hotel, we went into the old center of the town and walked down the narrow cobbled streets, teeming with people. There are lots of little boutiques and galleries, but also lots of touristy shops selling knickknacks, bikinis, sunglasses, espadrilles, ice cream, and pop. It was rather strange to be in such a tourist throng, while at the same time we were seeing religious window and balcony displays (branches and wreaths, statues of Mary, candles, and pictures of Jesus) and sacred music was being broadcast via speakers throughout the town. It was a confused and unsettling mix of cultures.

We had learned that the procession would be at 9pm. Restaurants were opening early so people could eat and still be done in time to watch the procession. This is quite a concession in France. The notion of eating dinner at 6pm or 7pm is a pretty wild idea. We stepped into a small cafe and had their Catalan menu--pan tomate (something we've been seeing everywhere in the Languedoc, which is bread covered with a paste made of cooked tomatoes and lots of garlic), fresh local anchovies, roasted red peppers, and Manchego cheese, followed by seafood, with local rose to wash it down.

We headed out to the broad street that runs from the church to the town center. People had staked out low walls on which to sit. We found a doorway of a closed shop in which to stand. Our spot turned out to be a perfect front row seat. We were only about a block from the church, which was within sight. We were able to see the procession coming toward us, and we were right at the point at which the procession turned a corner to process through the streets of the old town in a circuit that took them back to the church.

The event started with the priest telling a story. Then the torches were lit, drums set a cadence, and the Procession de la Sanchi began. This is a tradition of the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood. They are garbed in black robes and conical hoods with eye slits--rather disturbing to American eyes. Some were similarly garbed in red. Some were barefoot. They had tall sticks with which they kept the cadence. Some were walking individually, carrying torches. Most were in groups of four, carrying platforms with depictions of Christ's last days. Other platforms held statues of Mary or saints. There was a segment of the procession that was priests and altar boys in white. The final platforms were Jesus on the cross and Jesus in the tomb. Then there were women and girls with black lace over their heads. Once the procession had passed, viewers fell into line and became a part of the procession. We did the same. After about 4 or 5 blocks, we peeled off and moved to a large square where we were able to see a portion of the procession pass by again.

This was a truly exceptional opportunity. While this form of religious observance seems very foreign to us--in both senses of the term--we are so glad we were able to see it and be a part of it. Good Friday is a somber and dark occasion, and this procession seemed to fit that bill quite well.

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